Pretentiousness is so old these days. Why cant diners enjoy excellent service, great food that doesn’t set you back light years (especially after the federal budget) -without the pretence. This was the school of thought which led the transformation of taxi dining room to taxi kitchen.
Great concept – But…has it delivered? When it comes to the service, it seems that as the upmarket dining room has moved onto a more ‘cool, casual’ vibe, so too have it’s staff (although possibly a bit too ‘cool’). You may get some unenthused uni students with little food knowledge greeting you (if you can call it a greeting) and sadly may need to look for them several times during the course of the evening to order. And, to make sure your wine is topped up. And, to….Fortunately this institution is saved by the outstanding dining room and, the food. Don’t expect white table clothes and reidel glasses but 180 degree panoramic views of Melbourne ensure that wherever you’re sitting- you’re entertained.
As for the food, executive chef Tony Twitchett, has attempted to change the focus but retain the quality opting for a “generous, simple, rustic and playful” approach. ‘S’ Small Plates’ include a scorched oyster served on crispy salt & vinegar pork crackling looking cracking sitting on a bed of black stones. A perfectly seared plump scallop comes with a spicy mayo, crunchy kataifi and an array of fresh aromatic spices.
The non traditional beef croquet, shavings of spicy marinated beef in a fried square are a flavour sensation. M ‘Medium Plates’ may include 3 circles of A grade sake washed tuna charred on the outside, ruby raw in the centre, on a soy bean pesto with a rustic kohlrabi remoulade. The spicy salt and pepper quail with Apple soy dipping sauce may arrive looking boring, but after a bite you’ll be pleasantly surprised, and licking the bones off the delicious (albeit spicy) crunchy little bird. For your ‘L’ ‘Large Plates’ you could try the pan-fried homemade gnocchi with lamb, peas, mint and Persian Fetta. It’s a big combination-meat, cheese and a carby pasta which make it a robust, rich dish, but shared amongst a few – you’re guaranteed to leave the plate empty.
The crispy skin Chatham Island blue cod with crab and coconut curry is a jam packed with aromatic flavour and textured by flakes of coconut. The pretty pink confit duck is served on vibrant purple beetroot purée, bright green kale and orange orange. This wonderfully aesthetic dish looks like the colours of the rainbow have just hit your plate and the flavours equally as pleasing. Taxi kitchen have successfully removed the pretence and maintained the quality of food. Guess 2 out of 3 ain’t bad
Psst: Head upstairs for a cheeky cocktail and a glimpse of Melbourne’s iconic skyline from the balcony at Transit cocktail lounge, or head downstairs and check out all the action at fed square at Transport public bar.
- Melbourne, Melbourne
- Transport Hotel
- 3000 Melbourne
- +61 3 9654 8808
- See the website
Discussion about this post